CELLULAR JAIL SHOW - TRIBUTE TO MARTYRS

Son-et-Lumiere

"कोई माता की उम्मीदों पे न डाले पानी,
ज़िन्दगी भर को हमें भेज के कालेपानी...!"

“Koi Maata ki ummeedon pe na daale paani,

Zindagi bhar ko humein bhej ke Kaalepaani…!”

Introducing the supremely venerable, heroic saga of the selfless, intrepid freedom fighters of India in “Kaala Paani” recreated in a moving Sound and Light Show at the world-renowned Cellular Jail, Port Blair!

Till 1857, Andaman and Nicobar Islands had been just another dot on the map of the British Empire. Came the struggle for India’s independence and the first mutiny in 1857, the British rulers found new use for these islands and thereby starts the agonizing story of the massive and awesome Cellular Jail.

Located at Port Blair in the South Andamans, the Cellular Jail is very closely associated with the great Indian freedom struggle. Into this puce-colored structure were sent patriots who raised their voice against the British rule. Thousands languished for years in solitary confinement in its cells. And many perished, thus giving Andamans the notorious sobriquet of ‘Kaala Paani’ or the black waters.

Today, the Cellular Jail is a National Memorial, a tribute to those who dared. Visit to the Cellular Jail is a pilgrimage for every Indian. The saga of the heroic struggle for freedom is now brought alive in a moving Son-et-lumiere (Sound and Light Show) both in Hindi and English.

The show begins with a brief historical and mythological reference to the Andaman and Nicobar Islands by the wandering spirit of the Cellular Jail. The spirit, along with the centuries old ‘Peepal Tree’ in the compound, takes us on a journey through the dark times when freedom fighters like Veer Savarkar, Baba Prithvi Singh Azad, Bhai Parmanand, Ullas Kar Dutta, Sher Ali and host of others, faced inhuman torture and humiliation at the hands of the terrorizing jailor, David Barrie, the self proclaimed ‘Jail ka Khuda’ or the Lord of the Jail, as my erudite father, Shri Purushottam Lal Vashishtha, the very first Hindi Officer & Assistant Secretary – OL (Retd.), of A & N Administration, wrote once in one of his much-admired articles published in the leading Hindi magazine – ‘Dharmayug’, way back in the eighties.

Undeterred, they stood firm in their resolve, to carry on their fight for freedom. With courage and dignity. It is to these valiant patriots that the Cellular Jail Son-et-lumiere is dedicated.

I’ve been watching the peerless show ever since it was launched in the early nineties and would strongly recommend it to every visitor to these exemplary islands, to include this as the foremost in their itinerary. The sonorous voices of Late Manohar Singh, Om Puri, Naseeruddin Shah, Tom Alter and singers like Vinay Mandka, with Louis Banks’ enchanting music are a memorable and prized treat to listen to, indeed.

“Jayostute, Jayostute! Shri Mahaan mangale, Shivaspade, shubhade! Swatantrate bhagawati twamaham, yashoyutaam vande!”

 

Timings: •• Hindi – 6.00 pm •• English – 7.15 pm

 

Entry ticket: Rs. 20 (Rs. 10 for children below 12 years)

 

C R E D I T S

 

Research and Basic Script-

Late Dr. Melville de Mellow

 

Show Script-

Neelabh

 

Music -

Louis Banks

 

Lead Singer -

Vinay Mandka

Lighting Designing-

Dr. Nissar Allana

 

Voices-

Late Manohar Singh, Om Puri, Naseeruddin Shah, Jalal Agha,

 

Deepak Mathan, Tom Alter, K. K. Raina, Vijay Kashyap

 

Technical Collaboration –

Mavin Kurve, S. K. Mehta, Shiv Kumar & Robert Kerr of

 

M/s Philips India Ltd.

 

Artistic Design-

Late Manohar Singh

 

Production Consultant-

A. J. Jaspal

 

Production-

Chandni Luthra, R. M. Gupta of ITDC

"हाथ, जिन में है जूनून, कटते नही तलवार से,
सर जो उठ जाते हैं वो झुकते नहीं ललकार से.
और भड़केगा जो शोला सा हमारे दिल में है,
सरफ़रोशी की तमन्ना अब हमारे दिल में है!"

“Haath jin mein ho junoon katt te nahi talvaar se
Sar jo uth jaate hain voh jhukte nahi lalkaar se
Aur bhadkega jo shola-sa humaare dil mein hai
Sarfaroshi ki tamanna ab hamaare dil mein hai.

"है लिए हथियार दुश्मन ताक में बैठा उधर,
और हम तैयार हैं सीना लिए अपना इधर.
ख़ून से खेलेंगे होली अगर वतन मुश्क़िल में है
सरफ़रोशी की तमन्ना अब हमारे दिल में है!"

 

Hai liye hathiyaar dushman taak mein baitha udhar
Aur hum taiyyaar hain seena liye apna idhar
Khoon se khelenge holi agar vatan muskhil mein hai
Sarfaroshi ki tamanna ab hamaare dil mein hai!”

 
Vande Mataram!

JAI HIND!!!

CHATHAM - ASIA'S BIGGEST & OLDEST SAW-MILL

Chatham Saw Mill

 

On March 10, 1858, HMS Samiramis carrying the first batch of mutineers and other convicts lead by Dr. James Patterson Walker, anchors in the strait between what would later come to be known as Hope Town and Chatham Island…

 

 

Brief History:

The historic Chatham Island has a Saw Mill by the name Chatham Saw Mill lying on the tiny island connected by a bridge over a stretch of sea-water. This Saw Mill is one of the biggest and oldest in Asia. It is still using the machinery set up initially by the British for wood processing.

 

 

This historic mill was established in 1883 with the primary objective to meet the local requirements of sawn timber for the constructional works. The machines initially installed were second hand and operated with unskilled manpower available at that time. Unfortunately during the Second World War, the mill was destroyed badly by the direct hit of bombs, paralyzing its working completely.

 

 

However, after the Second World War, the mill was revived in mid forties and fifties by salvaging the old machinery to meet the continued need of sawn timber of the islanders. So much so, this requirement of sawn timber of the Islanders further increased manifold after the settlement of people from erstwhile East Pakistan, Srilanka and Burma etc. in these islands.

 

Objectives and Activities:

 

The majority of good quality logs are consumed by the wood based industries and the remaining logs which may contain knots, shakes, splits and sponges etc. are brought to the govt. Saw Mill Chatham for production of sawn timber where utmost possible extent of good quality sawn timber is salvaged to meet the requirements of local public, furniture marts as well as govt. departments for various public works. Besides, the premier timber of Andamans “the Andaman Padauk” is handled by govt. Saw Mill only.

 

 

The initial annual log intake capacity of the mill was around 20000 cub m., but to the lesser availability of logs due to various reasons, the mill is presently consuming around 12000 –13000 cub mtr. of logs, annually. Presently, the annual production of sawn timber of Chatham saw mill ranges between 5000 to 6000 cub m. of which, more than 90% is sold locally at the price fixed by the Andaman and Nicobar Administration on year to year basis.

 

However, the balance quantity of sawn timber which is not consumed locally is shipped to Chennai and Calcutta Govt. Depots for disposal by auction. The present annual average turnover of the Chatham saw mill is around Rs. 6 crores.

 

 

Organizational Setup and Administration:

 

The Mill complex is under the charge of a Deputy Conservator of Forests assisted by one Production Manger on the production side, one Asst. Mill Manger on sales side, one Asst. Constructional engineer on civil works, one superintendent Timber Treatment Plant on the timber Treatment preservation side. One saw filer in the sawn doctoring unit, one Range Officer on the log receipts side and one Range Officer on sawn timber sale side.

 

 

Besides, there is a Security Officer assisted by Security Inspector and Watch and Ward Staff to look after the security in the respect of Chatham Saw Mill. There is a small dispensary, which is looked after by a medical officer and his paramedical staff. A labor welfare officer looks after the welfare of the workers.

 

At present around a thousand numbers of industrial ministerial and executive staffs are working in the Chatham Saw Mill and are dependent for their livelihood on this mill. Although the unit is called as ‘Chatham Saw Mill’, it actually is a Saw Mill Complex having the following branches:

 

1. Log Depot - Deals with raw material (logs)

2. Saw Mill - Deals with the conversion of logs.

3. Saw Doctoring - Deals with the maintenance of Saw Blades.

4. Timber Yard - Storing and sales of sawn timber

5. Sale counter, Vijay Baugh. - Sale of Sawn Timber on retail basis to individual consumers.

6. Mechanical Workshop - Look after all machinery and attends to mechanical work of other divisions also.

7. Electrical Unit - Looks after electrical works of the mill and maintains the electricity supply of entire Chatham Island. It also maintains the stand by generator (248 kw) of the Mill and attends to electrical works of other divisions also.

8. Marine Workshop - Maintains the marine crafts of the division.

9. Building Construction Unit - Maintains all the building and Jetties of Forest Department in Chatham.

10. Timber Treatment Unit - Treatment of timber both chemically and by Seasoning (about 600 cum each annually)

11. Wood Workshop - Makes furniture required for Forest Department and concentrates on utilizing ill waste to the possible extend.

 

 

12. Vanakriti - Sale counter for Wooden Souvenirs and Handicrafts Items made out of Padauk and other Ornamental Woods of Andamans

13. Department Canteen - Caters to Mill workers with nutritious diet at concession rates (a statutory obligation also).

14. Chatham Dispensary - Provides First aid services to Mill workers (A statutory obligation also).

15. Forest Labor Club - Gives recreational facilities to workers.

16. Security Wing - Looks after the security of the Mill Division.

 

The historic Chatham Saw Mill is open daily to tourists from 6.30 am to 2.30 pm everyday except Sunday and public holidays.

Read more: History of Civilization in Andamans - A New Human Saga Is Born

Stats courtesy: Department of Forests, A & N Administration.

I CAME, I SAW AND I WAS ENCHANTED

“I Came, I saw & I was Enchanted!”

 

 

Thanks to the requests of a good number of my esteemed readers here over the past one year, I’ve been tempted to publish the rich, chequered, extraordinarily spine-tingling but very momentous history of these exemplary group of serene islands of Andaman & Nicobar, in a summarizing fashion, for the benefit of students, anthropologists, scientists, archeologists, sociologists, linguists, environmentalists, tourists and other general readers alike.

 

So, dive in and treat yourself with a unique and enchanting saga of human settlement that rekindles the reaction of Daniel Defoe’s legendary Robinson Crusoe, who said, “I came, I saw and I was enchanted!” J

 

Floating in splendid isolation, south-east of the Indian mainland is the archipelago of 572 emerald islands, islets and rocks known as Andaman & Nicobar Islands. This Union Territory is stretched over an area of more than 700 Km. from north to south with 36 inhabited islands and is divided into three districts – North & Middle Andaman and South Andaman to the North and Nicobar to the South. The North and the South districts are separated by about 90 nautical miles of sea – The Ten degrees Channel. These islands are the continuation of the ‘Arakan Yoma’ mountain range which extends from Myanmar up to ‘Achin Head’ of Indonesia.

 

 

These undulating islands are covered with dense forests and endless variety of exotic flowers and birds. The topography of the islands is hilly and abounds in evergreen forests. The sandy beaches on the edge of the meandering coastline are fringed with coconut-palms that sway to the rhythm of the sea. The sea around the islands offers excellent scope for water sports.

 

The rare flora and fauna, underwater marine life and corals, with crystal clear water and mangrove-lined creeks, offer a dream-view of the rare gifts of nature. The clean and wide roads, free of filth as well as unpolluted fresh air attract any nature-lover, who seeks absolute peace and tranquility in the lap of nature. Adventure tourism like trekking, island camping, snorkeling, scuba diving etc. are the real attractions. A visit to these islands is, undeniably, a memorable lifetime experience.

 

 

Mythologically, the name ‘Andaman’ was presumed to be derived from ‘Hanuman’, who was known to the Malays as ‘Handuman’. The name ‘Nicobar’ seems to be a corruption of the South Indian term ‘Nakkavaram’ (Land of the Naked) as indicated in the great Tanjore inscription of AD 1050.

 

Since prehistoric times, these islands have been the home of aboriginal tribes. The tribes of the Andaman group of islands are the Great Andamanese, Onges, Jarawas, and the Sentinatese, all of Negrito origin, while the tribes of Nicobars are the Nicobarese and Shompens, both of the Mongoloid stock.

 

The first settlement by the British took place in 1789, which was later abandoned in 1796. The second settlement was basically a penal settlement, taken up in 1858, after the First War of Indian Independence, followed by the settlement of convicts, ‘Moplas’, some criminal tribes from the then Central and United Provinces, refugees from the erstwhile East Pakistan, Burma (Myanmar) and Sri Lanka as well as ex-servicemen.

 

The Social Make Up

 

In these exemplary islands, people of all faiths - Hindus, Muslims, Christians, Sikhs etc., and of all languages like Hindi, Bengali, Malayalam, Tamil, Telugu, Punjabi, Nicobarese etc., live together in complete peace and harmony. Inter-religious and inter-regional marriages are common. This amazing racial and cultural mix is correctly described as ‘Mini India’.

 

An old picture of a street in Port Blair, the present-day capital.

 

Forests are the green extension over gold of the islands. The reserved and protected forests extend over 86% area of the territory and the forest cover is more than 92%. About 50% of the forests have been set aside as Tribal Reserves, National Parks and Wildlife Sanctuaries, which are inviolate.

 

Luxuriant Mangroves, perhaps the richest in the world, occupy nearly 11.5% of the territory. More than 150 plant and animals species are endemic in nature. Mahatma Gandhi Marine National Park is rich in corals, varieties of colored fishes, sea turtles etc., besides other marine life. It is a bird’s paradise - more than 271 varieties of birds inhabit the idyllic landscape, out of which 39 are endemic. Megapode, Swiftlet, Hornbill and Nicobar Pigeon are some of the specialties of the Andaman & Nicobar Islands.

 

The Andaman and Nicobar archipelago comprising of 572 Islands, islets and rocks, float in the clear blue waters of the Bay of Bengal, 700 nautical miles off the South Eastern coast of India. Andamans are the Weather Windows to the Indian Peninsula as majority of the systems which affect the Mainland have their origin in the Andaman Sea. The Isles experience a tropical monsoon climate. Temperature is moderate and relative humidity is high. With both North-East & South-West monsoons being received, it rains for about eight months a year. December to March is the season of relatively fair weather with winds, generally East/North-Easterly, accompanied by occasional showers.

 

 

Continue Reading Here.

KAALAPANI - THE BRITISH HUNT FOR HELL DISCOVERED ANDAMAN ISLANDS

Dear friends,

The British military doctors had admired the penal settlement unveiled by the French six years earlier on a rocky islet across Guyana. But their Devil’s Island would be far more ambitious. The doctors consulted Hindu texts and decided to create a psychological gulag based around the Hindi term ‘Kaalapani’, an epithet for “Hell”. It literally meant “black water”, but Kaalapani was also a myth, an ancient Indian story that told how the faithful were parted from their souls by crossing the sea. 

The doctors knew that “Kaalapani” would be feared across the Empire as a godless place, a journey that would strip the transported of their caste, community and creed. 

On December 11, 1857, Doctors Frederick Mouat and George Playfair reached an island chain that they knew was the ideal location. Their search for a seat of revenge against “deserters and rebels” was by now all the more pressing: British Rule was paralyzed by the Indian Mutiny. Three weeks earlier, Sir Colin Campbell had relieved the Residency at Lucknow to find that only 980 Europeans had survived a five-month siege. 

Mouat and Playfair knew, as they surveyed the terrain, that British troops were burying 2000 dead. “No one came to these islands”, the doctors noted in their logs, “but the half-drowned or truly desperate.” For nine months a year, the Andaman Islands were caught in the crosswinds of competing monsoons, and they remained uninhabited apart from pockets of “unearthly and ferocious tribes”. A better place to exile the “gigantic evil” of rebellion could not be found. 

On March 10, 1858, Dr. James Patterson Walker arrived at the Andaman Islands with the first batch of 200 “grievous political offenders” sweating in his ship’s hold. Transportation to Australia was outlawed in 1850, but there had been no furore when the doctor’s shipment had got underway from Calcutta eight days earlier.

Rare picture showing convicts unloading a ship at Chatham Island

“The jungle is so dense, and its entanglement by gigantic creepers so complete, as to render it impassable,” Dr. Walker wrote. Into the jungle he dispatched men in chains with orders to build their own shelters on Ross and Chatham islands. From Calcutta and Madras, from Karachi, Singapore and Burma (the present day Myanmar), the ships disgorged yet more prisoners, their crime and punishment carved on to wooden neck tickets, “so sick and debilitated that they cannot be now employed”.

An exotic view of Andamans

So many died on the voyage over, that Dr. Walker asked for another 10,000 to be shipped. From “sunrise to sunset”, Walker wrote in his diary, “I stood uncomplaining”. At the makeshift pier, he greeted new arrivals, “impressing on them the utter hopelessness of all attempts to escape”. And he frightened his charges by reading to them from Marco Polo’s journals an account of the indigenous tribes, dispersed across the 200 or so islands. “Every man not of their own nation,” Walker declaimed, “they can lay their hands on, they kill and eat.” 

Within four days, the newly transported were bolting. Prisoner 61, Narain, sentenced for “having excited sedition in the cantonment at Dinapore”, hanged himself. Another convict, prisoner 46, Naringun Singh, “guilty of desertion at Nuddea”, was the first to set out. He was fished from the black water, hauled up before Dr. Walker and executed on the approval of the medic’s superiors. 

By mid-April, 288 inmates, one third of those who had survived transportation to the islands, were on the run. When, on May 13, 81 of them, “driven by the murderous attacks of the savage aborigines”, limped back into Port Blair pleading for mercy and medicine, Dr. Walker hanged them all in a day. 

News of the summary executions reached Calcutta. JP Grant, President in Council, dashed off a letter deploring the result: “I cannot recognize any of his (Walker’s) considerations as justifying the executions.” But Walker escaped official censure, and on Grant’s orders every inmate capable of escaping was now locked into an iron collar, so that prisoners would never again be able to flee and “excite public attention”. 

The doctor was finally removed from the penal project on October 03, 1859, shortly after he had proposed branding the convicts’ forearms with their crime and sentence. Conditions worsened. Within four years, 3,500 out of 8,000 transportees had been killed or had died of fever, a staggering mortality rate that prompted an investigation. 

When Sir Robert Napier arrived at Port Blair, he found the scene “beyond comprehension”. An “air of depression and despondency” clung to the Andaman Islands. Why did the prisoners have no shelter, clothes or food? Only on Ross Island, where the new superintendent, Colonel RC Tytler, had settled with his wife Harriet, was there a thriving community – a European shop, turf, flowers, shrubs and a fine sandy beach.

A British ship entering the harbour at Port Blair

Eight years later, Lord Mayo, the Viceroy of India, arrived at the Andaman Islands on an inspection tour. As the sun set over Mount Harriet, on February 08, 1872, and the Viceroy descended from the highest point on the island chain, he announced: “This is the loveliest place I think I ever saw. Plenty of room here to settle two million men!” But his vision was instantly cut down. Major General Donald Stewart, the Islands’ superintendent, described the scene at a subsequent inquiry. He heard the cry of “kill, kill” and then a convict “fastened like a tiger on the Viceroy’s back”. Major Byrne, Lord Mayo’s private secretary, reported to the same panel that his superior cried out, “They’ve hit me.” 

The British Government of India concluded that the killer, Sher Ali, had no known motive. They hanged him on March 11. For Irishmen who remembered Lord Mayo’s tenure as their chief secretary, Prisoner 15557 became a martyr, a member of “the warrior dead”. Any hope that the Andaman regime would mellow was throttled. 

Photos courtesy: ancestry.com; Statistics courtesy: Light of Andamans